FLO Opens New Concept La Rosée in Xidan

by Holly Baer
 
Picture it: it’s Wednesday night, and you need a break from the chaos of the city – the chaos of Joy City, that is. You’re in Xidan, at Beijing’s most overwhelming mall, and it’s making you worn out. And hungry. So you take that colossal seven-story escalator all the way up, wander through the vaguely steampunk high-end food court, and then you see it: two metal trees, shining like a beacon. This is where you’re eating.

 
This is La Rosée. A solid step above your usual fair, but not demanding the time and table etiquette of fine dining, La Rosée is the latest restaurant by the group behind Maison FLO and F. Bistronome. The new concept isn’t fusion, exactly – it’s more like French techniques, given freedom. Offerings range from light to hearty. We start with the rouleux de printemps (a delightful salad roll with mango and parmesan, RMB39), and the rice roll made with ham and cheese (RMB55), before moving on to the filler uppers. We recommend the bonbon de Wellington (RMB298), an updated take on beef Wellington, wrapped in tofu skin and topped with foie gras. If that doesn’t suit you, try the quenelle de porc, a truffle-braised pork meatball with herb butter, escargot, water chestnut and bacon (RMB88).

End your meal with La Rosée’s panna cotta, a glorious concoction of black sesame, praline, hawthorn jelly and red bean (RMB39). It’s as gray as hutong street water, but it tastes like everything you miss about your granny. Or go with something with major aesthetic value, like the rose cake mousse (RMB55) and ananas flambé (RMB78).

No need to go thirsty: La Rosée has, of course, wine. And at surprisingly reasonable prices – Chardonnay starts at RMB218 a bottle. With French wine and good food in your belly, you’ll be ready for the trek home from Xicheng in no time.
 
Daily, 10am-10pm; 6/F Joy City Xidan, 131 Xidan Beidajie, Xicheng 西城区西单北大街131号西单大悦城6/F (6641 0050)